Mums

My entry for Simon's Monday blog challenge this week features a Tim Holtz Flower Garden stamp and watercolors.

I began by stamping the mums on watercolor paper with clear ink then used clear powder to emboss them.

Next I dropped in juicy yellow and orange watercolor, let it dry and then used a damp tissue to wipe it off the embossed lines.

I drew the likes of a basket and handle with my very handy Perfect Pearls pen, embossed with clear powder and filled them in with a brownish mix of watercolor.

Click to Enlarge

I used polka-dot washi tape to fill-in the basket around the flowers by pressing the tape down then cutting around the edges. A sharp blade and gentle pressure does the trick and prevents cutting into the background.

Then I masked the basket, flowers and handles so I could stamp the upper part of the tag with text (Heidi Swapp) using archival ink and tinted it with blue-green and magenta watercolor.

Final embellishments included hand-written text using a Gelly Roll pen, tacking on a bow and distressing the edges of the tag with walnut ink.

This becomes Tag Number 136 which I'll add to my collection at manilaguerilla.blogspot.com. But who's counting?

No. 214580 - Special Edition

A friend recently asked how I do image transfers so I thought I'd share a simple step-out today in case others are curious too.

(Click on the photos to see a larger version with the lightbox feature.)

I begin with a photocopy or laser printer (toner-based) copy that I crop to the size I need after reversing it (the Photoshop command is Image-Rotate-Flip Horizontal).

Why reverse it? I may not need or want to but it will be essential if there's text otherwise, it will be reversed and unreadable. Pay attention to the direction Mona is facing as I work through this example and you'll see what I mean.

With a paintbrush, I completely cover the front of the image with an even layer of polymer medium making sure to work all the way to the edges. If an area's not covered--it won't transfer.

I flip the image and place the wet side face down on my support (in this case, a Journal Ticket). I gently press and smooth the image down with my fingers to remove any air bubbles. If there's an air bubble--it won't transfer.

I have to work quickly so the medium doesn't dry before I place it on the support. If it doesn't dry--it won't transfer.

Also, I try not to get any medium on the backside of the image but don't worry if I do--it just makes it a little more difficult to remove later.

If a lot of medium oozes out from the edges then I'm pressing too hard or I used too much medium. Blot up what you can.  No worries, my image will still transfer and I'll know better next time.

I let it completely air dry which, in this case, only took about ten minutes due to the small size. In the past, I've rushed drying with a heat tool which can cause the paper to bubble and if there's a bubble... (you know the drill).

Now comes the fun of rubbing the paper away to reveal the image.

I add a small pool of water on my craft sheet then use my finger to spread it over the back of the photo. I let it soak a bit then begin to gently rub the paper away.

I avoid getting water on the ticket border or rubbing it since it's not protected with medium and I could damage it. Using small amounts of water in a controlled fashion is best--I don't want to rush this part.

I just keep adding a little water and rubbing away all the white bits and it doesn't take long before the magic is revealed.

The edges are the most delicate so I use careful, gentle rubbing in those areas. In spite of my caution, it's not uncommon to lose tiny bits and I don't mind because it adds a distressed appearance.

Notice how Mona is facing the opposite direction? Hopefully, you now understand why sometimes a reversed image matters. In this example, it was important to honor the direction Leonardo originally intended.

I hope you enjoyed this step-out and that you'll give it a try. I think image transfers are a terrific technique to use on mixed media projects.

You can check out other projects I've posted here on my blog that were made with image transfers if you need some inspiration!

Reorganization

My "studio" is a very small spare bedroom and when I began paper-crafting almost eight years ago I had no idea that, eventually, my stash of products would over-run me. So, a week ago, I began to reorganize and declutter to make things more functional.

My biggest problem was my supplies were spread out everywhere. I needed to sort through it all and put my paper together in one spot, move on to tools and then finally ephemera/embellishments. What a chore this has been but I'm beginning to see real progress and expect to have things right again in a few more days.

One accomplishment has been to renovate my Distress Ink storage container to better fit my shelving. And since my original DIY post is so popular I thought you might like to see the changes I made. The original was taller with two vertical rows--the new one is shorter and has four rows.

I just cut the original in half, glued the two shorter sides together and put a new base on it. The material is easy to modify, you can make it whatever size you need and add on to it later, if need be.

I am really looking forward to creating again once my reorganization is complete and vow to use up the materials more efficiently so I'll never have to do this again! (Famous last words?)

View Finder

I misplaced a very useful, home-made tool today and had to make another one. I thought I'd share the idea as you may find it useful too!

I call it a view finder and in the example above, I've placed it over a paper with a random design to see what might look best and where I should cut it.

It's made from a transparent sheet of plastic (I used a printer transparency but clear plastic packaging would also work).

I drew lines on the plastic in the exact dimensions of my tag with a permanent marker.

But it could be any size.

Maybe you make a lot of 4" x 6" cards or work with a particular size of canvas panel.

Just draw lines for the dimensions you need.

I find having a neutral border really helpful so I place masking tape around the edges next to the lines.

Scrapbook papers with many design areas can make deciding what section to use a bit difficult.

So I just use my handy-dandy view finder and play around with all the possibilities and, when I find the right spot, I know just where to cut.

Besides framing the view, this tool is good for holding small bits in place while you make up your mind where to place them permanently.

I'd love to hear from you if you decide to make one--let me know what you think!

Freestyle

I have finally tried out the last of the six flowers you get in the Tim Holtz Flower Garden stamp set. I think it's another Peony and it's been altered somewhat (more about this later).

Click to Enlarge

I call this tag Freestyle because that was the attitude I had while making it. I had no plan--I just starting doing stuff.

A bigger bottle would've been better (to keep the proportions right) but it was the only one I had and, anyway, a bigger bottle might mean a bigger tag and then where would it end?

I rather like the overall appearance though and discovered some interesting techniques that are sure to be useful in another project.

I thought I'd share exactly what I did so fasten your seat belts, it's going to be a bumpy ride!

1. I covered the tag with a page from an old dictionary.
2. I stamped the bottle, flower and stem with black archival ink keeping ink off one of the large petals near the base to make the flower smaller.
3. I used colored pencils to create a rainbow-effect in the background.
4. I used off-white to paint over the text inside the flower petals with a tiny brush.
5. I stenciled some large script on a piece of deli-paper with black paint.
6. I laid the deli-paper over the tag, traced the outline of the bottle and flower, cut it out, then pasted the remainder on the tag (leaving the bottle, etc., exposed).
7. I used a harlequin stamp and archival ink on the background by using the cut-out scraps from my deli paper as a mask.
8. I softened the edges of the impression with a bit of hand-sanitizer (which works great as an archival ink eraser on non-porous surfaces).
9. I tinted the flower with dye ink and a water brush and added a light wash of white to the bottle and stem.
10. I used black and white gel pens to make dots for accent. The black ones didn't dry so I used clear embossing power on them to speed things up and keep them permanent.
11. I used my Exacto-knife to scrape the edges of the tag, wet them with a brush and then applied black dye ink.

Perhaps a word about deli-paper is in order. I use it for all kinds of things and it makes great paper for collages because it is thin and durable. It reminds me a lot of the same type of paper Tim uses for his tissue wrap.

Now that I've used all the Flower Garden stamps individually, I guess it's time to plant a garden but I'll definitely need to use something larger than a tag. I think I see a journal page in my future!

I'm linking to the Wednesday blog challenge at SSS where this week's theme is make your own background.

Explore Life

Tim's March tag for 2015 is a lesson in masking and using embossing powders with texture paste. I have three tags in the trash that just didn't pan out but believe me, I tried. My failures may be related to not having the right mediums so I just had to do things differently.

I don't usually step-out my techniques but, in this case, I thought it would be useful to demonstrate my process (click on the images for a larger view).

I began by pasting a paper from Tim's Crowded Attic paper stash onto a manila tag. They are images of vintage stamp pads and one of my all time favorites.

Sometimes it's hard to visualize where best to place a stamp so I made an imprint on some acetate that I used to try out different arrangements.

I stamped the image using Perfect Medium and clear embossing powder because I wanted to create a resist.

Then I applied a coat of Seedless Grapes Distress Stain and let it dry followed by a second coat of Vintage Photo stain.

As you can see, the embossed image resisted the stains perfectly!

To remove the embossing, I used a hot craft iron and absorbent paper (newsprint is best). The iron re-melts the embossing and the paper absorbs it. Make sure to pull the paper off immediately after you heat the image otherwise it will cool and the paper will stick.

Tim calls this next technique "stamp-to-stamp." I wanted to fill-in the bird so I stamped a library stamp onto the bird stamp then re-stamped the bird onto my tag (whew!).

Hopefully, the photo will help to explain what I mean.

No rocket science for the next step which was simply a matter of sponging paint through Tim's Burlap stencil.

I went over some of the stenciled areas with Black Soot Distress Ink to provide a variation of color.

Tim always says, "it's in the details" so my final touches include a Remant Rub over homemade tape, a touch of Peacock Feathers on the raven's body, a gel pen for the black dots, a black colored pencil to outline one edge of the bird and a white gel pen to bring out a few highlights.

I admit I didn't follow along very well this month but I really like Tim's composition and the idea of using a large bold stamp along with the stencils. I think part of the appeal of his tag is the strong contrast of lights and darks which I tried to aim for.

The monthly tags always make me push my boundaries and try new things which must be the reason I enjoy it so much.


Here's a link to more information on the emboss resist technique from one of Tim's tutorials that explains it perfectly.

And here's a video from Tim that demonstrates the stamp-to-stamp technique (skip to the 6:45 minute mark to by-pass the embossing folder info). I kind of wish I had watched this demo before starting my tag. I would have done things differently but will definitely try this technique again.

Stamp credits: Stamper's Anonymous Scratched Raven and Library

DIY Distress Ink Storage

About five years ago, I made a storage container for my distress inks with 20 available slots and was certain it would be large enough to accommodate any future purchases. Hah!

So I recently crafted a new container that is larger than the original with some minor modifications. I decided to document the process and pass it along via this post in case others might want to make one.

All my photos can be enlarged via the lightbox feature--just click on them for a close-up view.

You will need:

- One sheet of foam core board (20" x 28" - 3/16" thick)
- Utility knife and an extra blade or two
- White glue (I used Elmer's)
- Ruler and pencil

Measure and mark your pieces using a ruler and pencil:

I've provided measurements for a box that will hold 28 ink pads but you can modify the design (make it taller, add more columns, etc.) to create a container that fits your needs. Mine will sit upright on a shelf next to my craft table so I sized it accordingly.

Back = 6 - 9/16" x 13 - 7/16"
Top & Bottom = 3" x 6 - 9/16"
Left/Right Sides & Center = 3" x 13"
60 Strips = 1/4" x 3"

Cut out the pieces using a utility knife (don't forget to protect your table surface).

Cutting tips:  Make multiple SLOW passes with the knife (don't try to cut through the entire thickness at once). Keep your knife straight up and down (parallel to the edge) and the blades sharp. Don't worry if some of the center foam flakes out because you can turn the rough edges towards the inside when you assemble it.

Cutting the strips is pretty easy--just make longer lengths first and then shorten them into smaller pieces.

Mark guidelines on the left/right sides and center pieces:

It will be easier to attach the strips if you mark lines for them first. I left a 1/4" gap on each end, then made marks for a 1/4" strip followed by a line for the space in between which was 5/8". Make sure the measurements match on all the strips. Remember you will have to mark both sides of the center strip.

edge + 1/4" + 1/4" + 5/8" + 1/4" + 5/8" + 1/4" + 5/8" + 1/4 + 5/8"  etc.

Glue the strips to the side and center pieces:

Apply glue to the paper side of the strips and attach to just one side of left and right side pieces. Glue strips to both sides of one piece and this will be the center support.

As with all things glue--don't use more than you need. A light, thin covering is sufficient and will set more quickly.

Assemble the box:

Build your box by attaching the top and sides to the back in sections. Make sure the edges line up evenly and hold in place until the glue begins to set.

Install the center post:

Make a mark at the center of the top and bottom pieces to assist with guiding the center post into position. Apply glue to the back, top and bottom of the center post and slide it in place.

Insert your ink pads and you are done!

I printed a Ranger ink template on plain paper, cut out the strips of text and glued them to the front of the pads (I didn't have printer labels). Then I tinted the labels with ink.

I did attach a small wooden base to mine because of the uneven wire shelf it will sit on but that is optional and won't affect how the container itself functions.

If you like to build things and need better storage for your ink pads, you might want to consider this. The end result is a lightweight but sturdy, custom container that costs very little to make and can be modified easily to fit your needs.

If you have any questions or need some advice leave a comment or send an email and do share this post with others who may be interested.

Update: I modified this storage tower when I cleaned-up my craft room. If you'd like to see the new version, here's the link.

Jaune

Not So Mellow Yellow is the Monday blog challenge at Simon Says Stamp, so...

I went looking for ideas on Pinterest, did a seach for yellow and found this house. I knew immediately that I must use it and remembered another image I had of a woman and brought the two together by way of an image transfer and a fussy-cut.

I really didn't do anything that technical but today but I thought I'd share the step-by-step process just in case anyone is curious.

1. I have a toner-based printer (versus ink jet) and printed the house image using Photoshop in the size of the tag after reversing it.
2. I stamped french script (Darkroom Door) on top of the tag with archival ink.
3. Working quickly, I coated the front side of the image with polymer medium (gloss) and placed it on the tag front-side down, smoothed out any bubbles and let it air dry.
4. I put a small dot of water on my table and dipped my finger in it to apply water to small areas of the image so I could gently rub the paper away.
5. To avoid over-wetting/over-working (which weakens the medium), I kept moving to different areas on the photo and continued dipping and rubbing until all the paper was removed.
6. Then I printed my woman after guessing at a size and cut her out of the photo using an Exacto knife and cutting mat.
7. I used a brown waterproof brush marker to ink the edges which helps to blend them into the collage.
8. I pasted the woman in place using Mod Podge.
9. I didn't like the balance of values (lights and darks) so I added a strip of white tissue paper stamped with script to the bottom using a glue stick.
10. I used gray acrylic paint to tint the strip, the sky, and most of the dark green values.
11. I mixed a very transparent batch of lemon yellow acrylic paint and used it to tint the woman's dress.

I appreciate the skill of artists using photo-editing software to create digital imagery. I suppose I could learn how to do it and then create a tag like this one using only a computer and printer. But I really enjoy using my paint and glue and creating the old-fashioned way. I do admit, however, that I would be lost without my printer.

If you have any questions about my process, feel free to contact me, my email address in on the side bar.

Make a Bird Cage Stencil

First I found an image I liked
(thank you Graphics Fairy).

Then I used Photoshop to posterize it
to remove small details and thicken
the lines and then I printed it.

I taped the print-out on some
stencil paper (I like using Yupo).

Then I used a black marker to
highlight the areas I would cut.

The cuts aren't perfect but I
like the hand-made appearance.

The end result works as both a positive or negative image. The left image was made using the normal stenciling technique. The right image was made by inking the stencil then rubbing a piece of paper over it (like a collagraph).